12/18/2006

Making candy: Fear not, follow the rules

By ERICA MARCUS

Newsday

Making cookies for Christmas is one thing, but only the truly fearless cook attempts candy.

At least that's what a lot of Christine Bisbee's students believe —- before she convinces them otherwise.

Bisbee is the resident instructor at The Chocolate Duck, a vast confectionery-supply store in Farmingdale, N.Y., that her parents, Harry and Pauline Cohen, have owned since 1986.

The average cookie maker, she said, "thinks that candy is a whole other ball of wax. But I tell them that in some ways, it's easier than baking — it's just a question of knowing some simple rules.''

A graduate of the New York Restaurant School (now called The Art Institute of New York City), Bisbee has been teaching candy-making and cake-decorating for 12 years. While many of her courses are geared toward the serious amateur, she also has a repertoire of simple holiday candy recipes that are perfect for beginners.

Almond Brittle

• 1&1/2 c. real maple syrup (not pancake syrup)
• 1/4 c. light corn syrup
• 1/2 t. salt
• 1&1/2 c. sugar
• 2 c. almonds, lightly toasted

Have ready a sheet pan lined with a Silpat (silicone baking mat). In a heavy saucepan combine maple syrup, corn syrup, salt and sugar. Bring mixture to a boil over medium heat, stirring. Wash down any sugar crystals clinging to the side of the pan with a brush dipped in cold water. Boil mixture, undisturbed, until it hits 300° on a candy thermometer. Working quickly, stir in almonds and immediately pour the mixture onto the lined baking sheet. Spread mixture as thinly as possible with an offset metal spatula (i.e., one with a bent silhouette) and let it cool at room temperature. Break into pieces. Makes about 1&1/2 pounds.

Homemade Marshmallows

• Confectioners' sugar
• 2 T. gelatin
• 2 c. sugar
• 1/4 t. salt
• 2 t. vanilla extract

Dust a 9-by-7-inch sheet pan (or 8- or 9-inch- square pan) thickly with confectioners' sugar. You should not be able to see the surface of the pan. In a small bowl, mix gelatin with 1/2 cup cold water. Set aside until gelatin has been absorbed and mixture is soft and somewhat set. In a large saucepan over medium heat, combine sugar and 1/2 cup water until sugar dissolves. Add gelatin mixture and bring to boil. Remove from heat, pour into mixing bowl and allow to cool until it is only warm.

With a standing mixer, beat sugar mixture until it is soft, shiny and double in volume, about 10 minutes. Pour into sugar-dusted pan and spread evenly with a spatula or the straight side of a bowl scraper. Allow to cool to room temperature. When it no longer sticks to your fingers, it is ready to cut.

For traditional marshmallows, cut into 1&1/2-inch squares and roll in powdered sugar. Or use cookie cutters to make holiday shapes.

Makes about two pounds of marshmallows.

Pecan Rolls

• 1 lb, caramel candies
• 2&1/2 c. sugar
• 1/2 c. light corn syrup
• 2 c. marshmallow creme (e.g. Marshmallow Fluff)
• 1/3 c. vegetable shortening
• 1&1/2 to 2 c. chopped pecans (or any other nut or even dried fruit)

Line a cookie sheet or sheet pan with a Silpat.

In a double boiler or microwave, melt caramels until just soft. Pour onto lined pan and, with an offset spatula, spread evenly into a rectangle about 1/8-inch thick.

In a heavy saucepan equipped with a candy thermometer, combine sugar, corn syrup and 1/2 cup water over medium heat and simmer, undisturbed, stirring and washing down any sugar crystals clinging to the side of pan with a pastry brush dipped in cold water. When temperature reaches 256°, remove from heat and spoon marshmallow creme on top of syrup. Do not stir. After 10 minutes, stir to combine.

Pour mixture into a mixing bowl and, with a standing mixer, beat until mixture is glossy and breaks off when beaters are lifted. Beat in shortening and nuts.

Pour mixture directly on top of caramel and, with a rolling pin, roll evenly so that the layer of nougat is even with the edges of the caramel. When cool enough to handle, use a Silpat to roll up from the narrow end. As you roll, press down gently to even out and smooth the candy. Roll the completed roll in the Silpat and refrigerate until

just firm. Cut into 1/2-inch slices. If roll is too hard to cut, let it sit at room temperature for a while. Makes about 2&1/2 pounds, or 25 slices.

Peppermint Bark

• Candy canes to yield 1 cup chopped
• 2 lbs. white melting chocolate
• Peppermint oil (optional)

Place candy canes in a food processor and pulse to chop them but do not process into a powder. Alternately, place candy canes in a plastic bag and use a hammer or meat pounder to chop.

Have a cookie sheet or pan ready. If you want to make shaped "bark,'' place cookie cutters directly on the pan.

Melt the chocolate gently in a double boiler. When melted, add chopped candy canes and a drop or two of optional peppermint oil. For shapes, pour mixture into cookie cutters to a depth of anywhere between 1/4 to 1/2 inch. For break-apart bark, pour mixture directly onto the pan and spread evenly with a spatula.

Place pan in refrigerator for at least 10 minutes, or until candy is firm and shiny. To unmold shapes, break off any stray drips before pushing bark out of mold. If you made a sheet of bark, break it into pieces. Makes about 2&1/2 pounds.