Information on Traverse City, Michigan and the surrounding Northwest Michigan area

04/28/2006

Hilltop hospitality

Ellsworth's House on the Hill boasts scenic views and outstanding coffee

BY DOUG DAVENPORT
For more bed and breakfast profiles, see our Bed & Breakfasts page

At 8 a.m., I rounded the last bend on County Road 48 and entered the village of Ellsworth. Suddenly, three tawny white-tailed deer bounded out of the woods on my right and high stepped across the road into a marsh. The final doe turned to blink at me before she disappeared. I wonder if Tom stages this welcome for all his guests, I thought to myself.

Tom and Cindy Tomalka are the innkeepers of The House on the Hill in Ellsworth. A secluded sanctuary tucked away in northwest Antrim County, about 40 miles north of Traverse City, this premier B&B is aptly named. It sits atop a prominent hill, overlooking Saint Clair Lake. I climbed the drive to parking at the rear and was rewarded with an overview of a serene wooded valley, where a creek meanders across the property.

From the kitchen, Tom welcomed me like an expected guest, poured us each a fresh cup of aromatic coffee, "ground locally just for us," he explained, and led me to comfortable seats by the fireplace in a spacious, daylight-filled sitting room.

Tom gave me a quick history of the home and property. The original house was built in 1896 on 600 acres of farmland. It first opened as a B&B in 1985, with just three rooms and one bath. Now they offer seven rooms, all with private baths. The three Carriage House rooms also include a gas fireplace. I noted the framed maps of France's esteemed wine regions, mounted on the sitting room wall.

"It's all about wine," Tom said. "We plan a social hour each evening when our guests gather to share some wine and conversation. We also feature Wine Weekend events, when we invite experts to guide us through tastings while enjoying special food prepared by local restaurants. Two of the finest restaurants in northern Michigan, Tapawingo and The Rowe, are just up the road a half mile or so. Many of our repeat guests come up for cooking classes at Tapawingo."

The House on the Hill is situated on 53 acres of wooded hillsides where nature invites guests to hike, bird watch, do nature photography, go kayaking on the lake or simply meditate and relax. The yard areas around the home feature beautiful gardens and sitting areas. The gardens are Cindy's handiwork. She joined us for a few moments and described the way guests are affected by the scenery.

"The grounds seem to invite people outside," she said. "We've arranged comfortable, quiet sitting areas where they can escape the stress of careers and city life. Many feel this is their home away from home. They don't usually plan many side trips and excursions; they come to relax, right here."

Tom and Cindy encourage guests to socialize with one another. They themselves have established long term friendships with many regulars.

"We've watched our guests grow older," she said. "We feel included in some of their families. Some have become close friends whom we visit when we travel."

Tom shares an anecdote: "At the end of the busy summer season, we've traveled down to Grand Rapids and hosted a dinner at a favorite restaurant for many of our long term customer/friends. It's like a reunion."

A good indicator of how guests feel about "The House" is their 86 percent return rate among guests, according to Tom. He attributed part of that success to their location, which is close to the restaurants and shops of Harbor Springs, Petoskey, Charlevoix and Traverse City."

Before I left, I had the opportunity to view most of the rooms. Elegant furnishings, artistic décor, wonderful architectural renovations, comfort and serenity are descriptions that leap to mind. At the Carriage House, I paused for a final view of the wooded valley and stream. The Carriage House affords each room an outside porch, framed by the preserved fieldstone foundation of the original barn. The Tomalkas have created the perfect escape, and the coffee really is outstanding.

For more information, go to www.thehouseonthehill.com