08/17/2007

For special night out, it's Windows

Murray cuts no corners in Glen Arbor eatery

By MATT SUTHERLAND

Special to the Record-Eagle

Record-Eagle/Douglas Tesner
Chef Phil Murray's Chocolate Exotica waits for a discriminating customer at Windows at LeBear. The upscale restaurant has a view of Lake Michigan and is located in Glen Arbor.

The most exhilarating yet frightening meal of my life took place a couple years ago when a friend arranged a Kaiseki dinner at Sugiyama's in New York.

No menu, no ordering, just plate after unannounced plate of Japanese delicacies — the vast majority raw, or slightly cooked creatures from the sea. In hesitant English, our waiter would quickly describe then offer advice on how best to get the item from plate to mouth without mishap, and even how long to chew before swallowing. Yes, a couple things were still moving.

I'm an adventuresome eater but if not for Niagara-like amounts of Sake, I might not have finished each of the 13 courses we were served. (Not to forget the occasional squeeze of my wife's hand under the table.)

These memories come to mind after a comfort food conversation with Phil Murray, chef/owner of Windows at LeBear in Glen Arbor. There's a place, he agreed, for extremely rare and expensive ingredients in restaurants, but he has a problem with chefs who cook extra-complicated food to please themselves (not their diners), as if their purpose is to cause a bit of anxiety, if not fear.

In fact, he admits to being the same way when he was younger.

"After years of serving things my way, I realized people want classic dishes,” Murray said, "a combination of comfort food and fine dining.”

Most of us remember Murray from his 20-year reign at Windows on West Bay just north of Traverse City. Fresh seafood, elaborate preparations, decadent sauces, ample portion sizes, often with a New Orleans kick, assured Murray a loyal following. When that location closed in 2006, a great many northern Michigan diners felt like they lost a part of the family.

As it turns out, Murray is cooking as well as ever in Windows at LeBear, his 35-seat restaurant on Sleeping Bear Bay in Glen Arbor. With views of the Manitou Islands and setting sun, LeBear may actually trump the West Bay location in the scenery competition. More importantly, the restaurant is thriving.

Much of his old clientele has followed him and relish the fact that Murray is there five nights a week, preparing every meal with his talented kitchen staff. The small dining room affords him the highest level of meticulousness.

My wife and I met friends at their Lake Michigan cottage for a glass of Champagne before boarding their golf cart for the short jaunt to LeBear. The restaurant was boisterous and packed with several familiar faces including an ex-governor and prominent Michigan artist at separate tables — no doubt, a good sign.

We were especially gratified to see Blue Lump Crab Puffs, Creole BBQ Jumbo Shrimp, and other appetizers reminiscent of Windows on the menu. Our friend Steve noted the shrimp sauce contained no sweetness at all. Vinegar with strong, tannic overtones of peppercorn were the dominant flavors and each of us developed newfound appreciation for BBQ.

My plate of pan seared foie gras arrived exceedingly rare and delicious in a saucy pool of lingonberries. A bottle of Domaine De La Collogne Pouilly Fuisse (French Chardonnay) at $42 was an excellent starter. Appetizers ranged in price from $10 to $16.

Texture was the word of the night. From glistening, ultra-flaky Red Snapper with lobster medallions to prime filets of beef topped with foie gras and morels in a port demi glace, we couldn't get over the mouth feel of each bite. Everything seemed borderline undercooked but wasn't — cooking at its best, to be sure.

Entrée prices hovered just under $40. Pricey yes, but Murray is obviously cutting no corner in the kitchen.

Matt Sutherland is co-founder of the Traverse Epicurean Classic and author of the newly released "Savor Michigan Cookbook: Michigan's Finest Restaurants, Their Recipes & Their Histories.” He can be reached at mfsutherland@yahoo.com or care of the Record-Eagle.